One Retinoid to Rule Them All:
P&G’s Quest for a Better Anti-Ager

In a sea of skincare ingredients, retinol has proven itself as a tried-and-true leader. We have decades of clinical data on its effectiveness as an anti-aging ingredient—but sometimes those results can come at the price of temporary skin irritation. P&G R&D is searching for the next generation of ingredients that provide superior efficacy without the typical side effects.

In a recently published study in Experimental Dermatology, P&G R&D scientists explored how 3 different topical vitamin A derivatives affect the skin and function over time: the ever-popular retinol, lesser-known but well-established retinyl palmitate, and the relatively new retinyl propionate. Using technology like mass spectrometry, an analytical technique that measures the mass-to-charge ratio of ions, our scientists are determining the amount of bioactivity that occurs in the skin.

Study results suggest that the new kid on the block, retinyl propionate, has a promising ability to better penetrate the skin than traditional retinol and retinyl palmitate, while also causing less irritation. Additionally, the study found that a little retinyl propionate goes a long way, potentially paving the way to more economical anti-aging skincare products. While more research still needs to be done to fully understand why retinyl propionate outperforms, P&G experts are continuing to follow the science to shape the skincare of tomorrow.